by James D. Howell

The alarm wakes us before full daylight; we are dressed and out the hotel door on a clear Canadian morning. We stop by a convenience store for coffee and pastries. It’ll have to do as breakfast on our way up the valley. I ease the rental car through quiet streets and onto Canada Highway 1, westbound; we are alone on this stretch of road.

The peaks of the Canadian Rockies are becoming very visible on either side of the road. Down here, the air is still and cold. Heavy shadows are giving way to morning glow. Banff is behind us, Lake Louise ahead about 35 miles. This is the valley of the Bow River, one of the most beautiful in North America, located in the heart of the Canadian Rocky Mountains.

This morning we’re taking the express route, leaving the older road for future visits. We want to be at Lake Louise just after sunrise. That’s when I think the conditions will be at their photographic best. We plan to hike to the teahouse at the Plain of Six Glaciers.

We notice cars pulled over on the shoulder up ahead; I slow down and pull off the road also. There’s a herd of elk crossing a shallow place in the Bow River. It’s a sight to behold and I grab my camera for opportunities. Some camera clicks later, we see the reason for the early morning venture into the water. A large, dark four-legged shadow trots along the far bank. A wolf has spooked the herd. The wolf moves on and so do we.

The valley is getting much brighter as we park in the lot and make the short walk to the promenade in front of the Chateau Lake Louise. The large hotel was originally started and built by the Canadian Pacific Railroad as an outdoors adventure destination for rail passengers. The first building was partly destroyed by fire. Today, the large, imposing structure is modernized and famous among the more elite hotels on earth. The view from the promenade and from lakeside rooms is nothing short of spectacular.

We walk, take pictures and enjoy the crisp early fall air. The water is turquoise, fed by glacial waters. On the far side of the lake is a trail that snakes past the lake, and criss-crosses the feeder creek. It winds slowly and climbs to the Plain of Six Glaciers, a geographic point that encompasses six fragments of the ice age glacier that carved this valley. About three and a half miles and about 1,100 feet up is a teahouse. It’s well known and we set off; early in the day is better because of late summer heat and there are fewer people along the way.

It’s an easy stroll along the shoreline for the first mile or so. The climb is gentle and we take frequent breaks to rest and enjoy the view. It’s quite a view: the turquoise lake, the hotel and the mountainside ski slopes in the distance across the Bow Valley. Summer snow melt is about complete and the creek is a trickle, easily crossed at will.

The trail goes through a couple of switchbacks and a grove of trees. Nestled under the far edge of the trees is the teahouse. It’s a rustic, interesting, square, structure with a surrounding balcony on the second level. It is obviously handmade — strong to withstand the rigors of Canadian winters. Refreshments are in order and we enjoy homemade pie and tea.

The view from the balcony is absorbing. Out there, periodically, small glaciers shed their winter coat and create avalanches in close by narrow valleys. The loud crack can be heard across the valley, even here in the tea house.

The house is not full yet. Hikers and backpackers arrive from trails beyond the teahouse and take a break in the shade. Rough hewn benches seem to be welcome refuge for tired bodies. Bright colorful equipment is in sharp contrast to green trees and gray rock.

The menu here is simple, sandwiches and desserts made from scratch on the premises. All the supplies come from Calgary and are brought up by pack horse every season. The current operators live in a cabin directly behind the teahouse for the season. Nobody winters over here.

We enjoy the break, congratulate ourselves for having made the hike, and head back down the valley. The afternoon sun is warm; the scenic beauty is sharply focused. We encourage other hikers on their way up with “It’s not much further” and “You can do it.” It seems to be the custom; we learned on our climb up.

This place is indeed a jewel in the Canadian Rockies.

JAMES D. “ARCHIE” HOWELL is a Southampton County native and 1955 graduate of Franklin High School. He can be reached at archiepix@kingwoodcable.com.